People always talk about the health benefits of Japanese food,' he said, 'but...

People always talk about the health benefits of Japanese food,' he said, 'but I'm fascinated by other aspects of the Japanese dining experience. Like the whole system of serving food at a counter like this, with the customers all facing the same direction, instead of each other. It's strange when you think about it. At a sushi bar, for example, everyone's facing the itamae-san, and you discuss the things you're eating – what type of squid this is, and where they're caught, and how this is the season for them but they'll only be at their best for another couple of weeks, and so on. Discussing the food with the chef even as you eat it – that's a peculiar system.'
'I suppose it is, isn't it? I don't go to sushi restaurants very often – they're so expensive – and I could probably count the number of times I've sat at the counter, but I know what you mean. There's something about that atmosphere.'
'At its worst, it's almost an atmosphere of collusion.'
'Collusion?'
'Everyone at the counter becomes a member of the group. In some sushi bars, all the customers are regulars and they all know each other. As an outsider, you need courage to walk into a place like that and take a seat. It's a tight-knit little community, and harmony is of the utmost importance. Nobody's confronting anyone else individually. The conversation all proceeds through the chef, who's like a moderator or a master of ceremonies. You couldn't spend some quiet time with a lover, for example, in a place like that, because you'd be isolating yourselves from the others and spoiling the atmosphere for everyone.