This lingering hint of savagery isn't necessarily a strike against fire cooking, however. To the contrary, some believe a bloody slab of beefsteak augments the power of the eater. "Whoever partakes of it," Roland Barthes wrote in Mythologies, "assimilates a bull-like strength." By comparison, the braise or stew-and particularly the braise or stew of meat that's been cut into geometric cubes and rendered tender by long hours in the pot-represents a deeper sublimation, or forgetting, of the brutal reality of this particular transaction among species. Certainly
( Michael Pollan )
[ Cooked: A Natural History of ]
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