When a comprehensive history of the early twenty-first century is written, the first three chapters will inevitably focus on the newfound ubiquity of bespoke food. Michael Pollan and Eric Schlosser will be remembered as the gifted visionaries who correctly identified Americans propensity for noshing on the factory-to-table fare peddled by multinational food conglomerates as the reason so many of us are fat, sick, and nearly dead. Today, every enlightened urban dweller accepts such reasoning as gospel. Our problems as a people originate not from who we are or what we aspire to be, but from what we eat. Or so says the trendsetting subclass known as foodies.
( Kevin Craft )
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