In "In a Narrow Grave: Essays on Texas," author Larry McMurtry humorously suggests that anyone who skips the experience of savoring a chicken fried steak during a long drive across Texas is missing out on an essential part of the state's culinary culture. This quote highlights the deep connection Texans have with their food, particularly regional specialties that hold cultural significance.
The phrase "only a rank degenerate" emphasizes how much Texans value this dish, framing it as a rite of passage for travelers. The humorous tone reflects McMurtry's affectionate portrayal of Texas, inviting readers to appreciate not just the scenic journey but also the local flavors that define the state's identity.