{Commentary by J.-P. Quélin, food critic for Le Monde}. {New York and London chefs} are cooking, he says, at a level of originality that defies judgment, defies criticism, defies the grammar of cuisine. {This I think is true. When I took my brother to L'Arpege for his birthday we got fourteen -small- courses ... that made even the best of the old cuisine look like sludge.} /289
In his commentary for Le Monde, J.-P. Quélin highlights the exceptional originality of chefs in New York and London, suggesting that their culinary creativity transcends traditional standards and expectations. This statement underscores the revolutionary approach these chefs take, pushing beyond established norms to create unique dining experiences that can be difficult to critique or categorize.
Adam Gopnik supports this notion through a personal experience at L'Arpege, where he celebrated his brother's birthday with a remarkable fourteen-course meal. He notes that this modern culinary artistry dwarfed the quality of esteemed classic cuisine, elevating his dining encounter to a level that made traditional dishes seem inferior by comparison.
